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Hard to beat the convenience of the ski in/out location, too.Improve Your Game with Articles and Videos from Our Experts.Earn One Point for Every Dollar Spent.Download Our Mobile App and Sign Up for Text Alerts. and pick up your order today for free. Begin by carefully opening the box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself on them. For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys; and a T-25 Torx wrench. If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services. Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Once you have the bike box opened: Before proceeding, make sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box. Now that your bike is out of the box: Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes shifter or brake cables while doing so.toowoomba handyman services Install seat post into frame:business for sale pomona qld Loosen the seat clamp and insert the seatpost into the seat tube.business for sale acapulco Position your bike in a comfortable working position. big nick's handyman serviceIf you have a bike stand, that's your best bet.business for sale melbourne bakery

It's now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Begin by making sure the cables are in the correct position – where cables are not twisted or kinked and the shifter and brake lever on the right will control the rear of the bike while the shifter and brake lever on the left will control the front of the bike.business for sale padstow Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. Most bars will offer some guidance using painted marks on the bar. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally (use an "x" pattern for four bolt systems) to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm. Install the rear brake cable clamp.

Installation and Set-up of front (and rear) mechanical disk brakes: Now it's time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the axle. Please note that some hubs have little spacers which are pressed loosely onto the axle. Be sure not to throw these spacers away with the safety caps. For some disc brakes you may need to install the disc rotors. NOTE: Try not to touch the flat side of the rotor (or minimally touch it) as that can cause squeaking once the brake is used. The disc and rotor bolts will be in the small parts box. Before attaching the front wheel, you'll want to secure the rotors to the wheels using the supplied bolts. Make sure to pay attention to the rotation direction of the rotor which will be marked on the disc with a directional arrow. NOTE: All disc bolts should be checked prior to front wheel installation to make sure they are tight to manufacturer’s specs. Next is to mount the front wheel on the fork – make sure the fork is in the correct position before mounting the wheel (fork arch should be facing forward):

Install the front wheel so that the disc is on the same side as the caliper, being careful to make sure the disc sits in between caliper pads. The tire should also be centered in fork. Some bikes may arrive without a front brake cable installed. Use the following steps if this applies to your bike. Installation and set up of front brake: For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an "L" or "R" on the end of the pedal spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to the threads of each pedals thread before installing. Start by hand threading in the left (this should be indicated by an "L" on either the end of the pedal spindle or on the pedal axle), the non-drive side pedal, into the left/non-drive side crank arm. Tighten by turning your pedal wrench 15mm to the left (counter clockwise). Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike).

Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right (clockwise). Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty. Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling the bike, shift the rear derailleur to lowest gear (largest cog) in the rear. Now it is time to make sure the high limit screw is set so the chain does not fall between the highest gear and the frame. While pedaling the bike, shift rear derailleur to highest gear (smallest cog) in the rear. For proper rear derailleur alignment and adjustment, please refer to the manufacturer's instructions for your specific derailleur model. On Shimano rear derailleurs, the jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM rear deraillueurs, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog.

OR utilize these links to manufacturers site for instructional PDFs and/or videos: Now it's time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling the bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each "click" of the rear-right shifter lever (when facing forward on the bike) should correspond to the chain moving up the gears one cog at a time. To adjust the cable's tension, use the adjusting barrel at the rear derailleur or at the rear shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear. Additional help link: Rear Derailleur Adjustments Here Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front derailleur height and alignment are correct.

Now it's time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the chain is in the lowest gear (largest cog) in the back. Make sure the front derailleur is set so that the chain is in the lowest gear (smallest chainring) in the front. Next, shift the rear derailleur so that the chain is in the highest gear (smallest cog) in the back and the shift the front derailleur into the high gear (largest chainring). As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chainring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly. Align your bars to the front wheel. While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel tighten the stem bolts. Most stems have a 4nm maximum torque setting.Each tire will have a manufacturer's recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting. Last step is to go through the entire bike one more time and make sure that: